"Last year I crossed overland between Rwanda and the Democratic Republic of Congo at Goma. My fixer, Praveen Moman of Volcanoes Safaris, had it all in hand with the border authorities, giving me time to clock the parked-up yellow Pontiac Firebird Trans Am. How did it get here? The whiff of corruption was everywhere. But then with border crossings, am element of danger is part of the appeal, even if it comes from a largely Hollywood-fed fear of state authority , of men in uniforms, of something more powerful than my British passport, of Grimes' American one."
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Tracking chimpanzees in their natural habitat, as they swing from the branches in the canopy high above the forest floor is nothing short of exhilarating. The chimps effortlessly cross and scamper through the trees above the gorge, and visitors on the other hand must cross the river using natural bridges in order to keep up with the chimps. So although the walk usually lasts only 2–3 hours, descending the steep gorge and crossing the log bridges over the river requires some agility and fitness.
Chimpanzee tracking is also available in nearby Kalinzu, a forest reserve 30 minutes drive from Kyambura Gorge Lodge where there is a community of about 40 habituated chimpanzees.
