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" Ruhengeri serves as the base camp for those who come to Rwanda for gorilla trekking, though we stayed at Virunga Lodge, about a half hour (and 2,300-meter) drive up-mountain, above twin lakes Ruhondo and Bulera, with misty views of the Virunga volcanoes. The eco-chic lodge was renovated in 2013 and runs on solar power and charm: rustic but comfortable bandas featuring private verandas, a personal butler who'll arrive for your 4 a.m wake-up call (with plenty of strong coffee), nightly performances by local dances troupes and communal dining in a cheery, fire-lit main space that encourages even the most anti-social travelers to share their stories of the day."
Tracking chimpanzees in their natural habitat, as they swing from the branches in the canopy high above the forest floor is nothing short of exhilarating. The chimps effortlessly cross and scamper through the trees above the gorge, and visitors on the other hand must cross the river using natural bridges in order to keep up with the chimps. So although the walk usually lasts only 2–3 hours, descending the steep gorge and crossing the log bridges over the river requires some agility and fitness.
Chimpanzee tracking is also available in nearby Kalinzu, a forest reserve 30 minutes drive from Kyambura Gorge Lodge where there is a community of about 40 habituated chimpanzees.